Before laying paver stones over your old patio, check the surface for imperfections that could lead to problems down the road. Hairline cracks are not a cause for concern, but you want to avoid laying stonework if the existing surface has defined cracks, holes, chips or uneven sections. You should make any necessary repairs to the underlying surface before placing pavers over the uneven concrete patio.
If these areas are not repaired before the stonework is set, they are likely cause gaps or loose stonework in the future. Stone pavers can be secured without mortar, using a setting bed of masonry sand. You'll need a clean surface and a sheet of landscape fabric over the existing patio. Landscape fabric keeps the sand from washing away in the rain. To calculate the amount of masonry sand you need, measure and divide the square footage of your patio by I would like to add to my porch sq.
Hubby and I just bought this house. It is on the National Historical Register, built in by Judge Joe Ralls and we have seen the work, inside and out, needing to We eat on the porch at least 8 months per year so this is the table that's used most.
I don't want the glass but I don't want to buy new porch furniture. How can I Answer this question. Hi, I have a tiny patio that has some cheap paving stones laid down.
The problem is they are not very pretty and I wanted to put down some porcelain tiles outside as I have them left over from another project. But do I need to lift the existing paving stones before laying these down, or can just lay these over with mortar? I've been googling but not come up with anything maybe because it's a really silly question!
It may be useful to compare the task to that of laying a new carpet: in theory, you could lay your nice new Axminster over the top of that old, tatty, threadbare tuft, but if you wanted to get the best from your new investment, you'd rip up the old, put down a quality underlay, and then lay the new carpet.
When replacing existing paving, even when the new paving comprises units that are shallower than the previous, it's rarely a good idea to leave the old bedding in place. That bedding was created for a different paving, the old ones, and it may not be entirely suitable. There may be a temptation to lay a new bed directly over the old, but this, too, is not always a sound plan. The old bedding may well be degraded or fractured or weakened in some way, so is best to replace it.
And there's also the consideration that adding a new bed could elevate the new paving to a level that causes other problems, such as conflicts with existing levels or reducing the distance between paving and DPC to less than mm. With loose, flexible, or unbound bedding sand or grit it is known that the effectiveness of such bedding deteriorates over time. The second argument against over-laying is that of levels.
All paving and surfacing should be at a level that is at least mm below that of any DPC or internal floor level except at doorways and in exceptional circumstances.
Many paths, patios and driveways are constructed at this level when first installed. Consequently, any overlay would reduce the separation between DPC and paving. Using the thinnest readily-available flagstones, such as the 25mm imported sandstone flags, and allowing for a minimal bed of 25mm, would result in lifting the pavement level by 50mm, and thereby reducing the differential to just mm.
As should be obvious, using thicker pavings, such as a 40mm wet-cast flagstone or a 50mm block paver, would result in an even more drastic reduction in the differential.
As mentioned on the All about DPCs page, breaching the mm rule won't result in a prison sentence, but it can and does adversely affect property valuations, and there is a strong possibility that any insurance claim for damp arising from installation of a pavement to incorrect levels would be rejected.
However, on private property, it is a decision for the property owner: if they elect to ignore the mm rule, then they will have to live with the consequences. Should a contractor be asked to install paving to a level that breaches the mm rule, then it would be a good idea to obtain a written instruction from the property owner, stating that the contractor has advised the client of the pitfalls involved in such a construction, that the client has accepted full liability, and that the contractor has been instructed to carry on regardless.
So: if the property owner does decide to ignore all of the previous advice, what sort of construction should be used? I'm laying them with wide gaps in between and then pebbles in these gaps. Can I just pave over the top of the existing pavers and if so how do I stick the new ones down? Cheers, Chris. Will the finished height be too high if you pave over the top? Have the previous pavers sunk or moved much? If the paving is still in great condition then you could consider paving over.
If you were to pave over the top you need 75mm of paving sand to bed the pavers plus the height of the paver. The overall height would then be mm or so higher than current.
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